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BAKUCHIOL
In the quest for younger-looking skin, Retinoids reign supreme. These vitamin A-derived topicals are one of the best-studied anti-aging ingredients on the market. But Retinoids can be harsh on the skin, causing side effects like dryness, burning, stinging, peeling, and sun sensitivity. A botanical ingredient known as bakuchiol (pronounced buh-koo-chee-owl) has gained popularity as a potential gentler alternative to retinoids.
WHAT IS BAKUCHIOL?
Bakuchiol is an extract from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia (nicknamed "babchi"), a plant grown in India that’s been a staple of traditional Indian Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine for many years.
Whilst it doesn’t share the same chemical structure as the retinoid family, it has the ability to activate its receptors, meaning it can deliver similar benefits, potentially without some of the side effects. Similar to retinoids, bakuchiol appears to stimulate collagen-producing receptors in the skin.
BAKUCHIOL VS RETINOL
The paper published in the British Journal of Dermatology (1) provides compelling evidence that warrants some excitement. It compares the effects of 0.5% Bakuchiol, applied twice daily, with 0.5% retinol used nightly among 50 women in their late 40s with photo-aging. The study found that both treatments improved wrinkles and hyperpigmentation to a similar extent.
You might wonder: Does bakuchiol have fewer side effects? According to the study, retinol users experienced more stinging and scaling compared to those who used Bakuchiol, suggesting that Bakuchiol may offer better tolerability.
BAKUCHIOL AND SKIN PROBLEMS
- BAKUCHIOL HELPS WITH ACNE.
Its anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effects mean it's helpful with active blemishes, whilst its retinoid-like action means it helps unclog pores. It’s also able to reduce the activity of 5 alpha-reductase within the sebaceous glands, leading to less clogging and potentially less oil production.
- BAKUCHIOL HELPS WITH PIGMENTATION.
It acts at 2 distinct points in the pigmentation pathway - firstly by decreasing the activation of melanocytes, the cells that produce our skin’s pigment. And secondary, by decreasing tyrosinase activity, the rate-limiting step in the production of melanin. Powerful stuff!
-BAKUCHIOL IS ANTI-AGEING
It helps with fine lines and wrinkles. This is through an effect on the same genes influenced by retinol, reducing the breakdown of collagen and increasing the manufacture of skin scaffolding proteins.
IS BAKUCHIOL SAFE TO USE IN THE DAYTIME?
One key advantage - it has a different chemical structure, meaning it’s stable when exposed to UV, hence it can be used both day and night. By contrast, we recommend retinoids are only used at night as they are unstable + risk being rendered ineffective when exposed to UV light.
WHAT ARE OTHER BENEFITS OF BAKUCHIOL?
-It can be used twice a day - if you like the benefits from once a day, you can safely double up.
-It plays well with other Actives and can be used together with Granactive Retinoid, Niacinamide, and Azelaic Acid.
-It’s a potent antioxidant, so it’s likely to be highly effective at preventing future damage from external aggressors, so another reason why it's a great addition to our morning routine. This property may also be helpful in acne.
-It’s natural, which a lot of people find very reassuring. And it's a real delight to find a natural ingredient that has this much impact.
-It's a great Active ingredients that have something to offer those of us who are both acne-prone and concerned with premature aging.
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